SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR GRADING FANCY CUTS
Along with the normal grading steps and things you look for in any fancy cut, there are some grading considerations that apply only to specific shapes:
STEP CUTS
• Inclusions might be easier to see
• Color might vary when viewed through different rows of facets
• Large tables are not unusual
• Table edges might not be parallel; if they're not, measure table width in the center
• Judge the crown and pavilion angles by the center row of facets, profile view
• Check pavilion bulge
• The culet should be centered end to end and side to side
• Look for sides not parallel, uneven corners, uneven bulge, narrow or no corners, or wide corners
• Naturals often occur at beveled corners—make sure you don't mistake them for faceted corners
• If girdle facets tilt at an extreme angle toward crown or pavilion, the resulting sharp edge, called a knife edge, might chip. Describe this as an extremely thin girdle regardless of its actual width
• Preferred length-to-width ratio is between 1.50:1 and 1.75:1
Step Cut
HEARTS
• Measure length from the point to an imaginary line across tops of lobes
• Width is sometimes greater than length
• Check point for inclusions
• Color is usually darkest through lobes
• The girdle can be thicker at the point and in the cleft, so judge its thickness between shoulder and point on both sides
• Look for bow-tie face-up with your unaided eye
• Check to see if the culet is aligned with the belly bezel facets where they point up at the table
• Look for uneven wings and lobes, flat or bulged wings, misshapen lobes, and undefined point
• Preferred length-to-width ratio is 1:1
Heart
MARQUISES
• Check points for inclusions
• Check for color concentration in points
• Shallow crowns and pavilions are common
• The girdle can be thicker at the points, so judge its thickness along the belly and wings on both sides
• Look for bow-tie face-up with your unaided eye
• Judge profile symmetry from the end and the side
• The girdle plane might arch from point to point
• The culet or keel line should be centered
• Look for uneven wings, flat or bulged wings, and undefined points
• Preferred length-to-width ratio is between 1.75:1 and 2.25:1. If it's too long, it might affect durability
OVALS
• Look for bow-tie face-up with your unaided eye
• Judge profile symmetry from both ends and both sides
• The girdle plane might arch from end to end
• The culet or keel line should be centered
• Look for uneven, high, or square shoulders
• Preferred length-to-width ratio is between 1.33:1 and 1.66:1
Oval
Pear
PEARS
• Check the point for inclusions
• Check for color concentration in point
• Shallow crowns and pavilions are common
• The girdle can be thicker at the point, so judge its thickness between shoulders and point on both sides
• Look for bow-tie face-up with your unaided eye
• The girdle plane might arch from head to point
• Check the placement of the culet or keel line
• Look for uneven wings or shoulders, flat or bulged wings, high or square shoulders, and undefined point
• Preferred length-to-width ratio is between 1.50:1 and 1.75:1. If it's too long, it might affect durability
TRIANGLES
• Large tables are not unusual
• Width is any side if all sides are approximately the same. If any side is considerably shorter or longer, that side should be used as the width of the stone
• Length is the measurement from the side used as the width to the opposite point
• Shallow crowns and pavilions are not unusual
• The girdle can be thicker at the points
• Look for bow-tie face-up
• Preferred length-to-width ratio is 1:1
PRINCESS CUTS
• Extremely large tables are common
• Shallow crowns and deep pavilions are common
• Look for sides not parallel